Retinoid Do’s and Don’ts

By: Jessica Meyer

All hail the retinoid! There are several versions of this Vitamin A derivative that work to improve a multitude of skin conditions, including moderate to severe acne, wrinkles, and sun damage. You may have heard of Atralin, Retin-A, Tretinoin, Kinerase, Epiduo, just to name a few.  They all work to stimulate collagen growth, reduce oil, and speed up skin renewal.  Because retinoids have a wide array of benefits, here are a few tips that will maximize effectiveness.

Some of the most common issues we hear from patients stem from when and how they are using their retinoid:

1. Use only at night! Variations of retinoids make your skin extra susceptible to sun damage, so it’s important to also use an SPF during the day. Some retinoids also break down in the sunlight.

2. Make sure your face is completely dry before applying. This doesn’t mean blotting with a towel. This could mean waiting as much as 20 minutes. When the skin is wet, it allows the retinoid to penetrate more deeply, which may increase irritation. Use this drying time to first apply eye creams and facial moisturizers. Then wash your hands to apply the retinoid!

3. Only use a pea-size amount for the entire face. This goes for anywhere else you’re using it as well, like the chest, neck, back, or hands. More is not always better! This small amount is all your skin needs for maximum effectiveness. This also means that you should not spot-treat. Your retinoid needs to be blended in very thinly and evenly all over the desired area.

4. Ease into it. When first starting the use of your retinoid, it’s vital to begin slowly. Depending on your skin type, a retinoid can initially cause redness, peeling, and irritation.

The best way to avoid unnecessary irritability is to start off using it every other night, or even every third night. Another great way to transition is by using a moisturizer before the retinoid. CeraVe PM is a great drugstore moisturizer to use, because it doesn’t have any fragrance or harsh irritants and is suitable for all skin types. BioCream is a high-end, anti-aging moisturizer that is gentle enough to use as well, but not ideal for acne-prone patients. Steer clear of exfoliating facial cleansers at first if your skin is sensitive too. A gentle, soap-less cleanser is best.